İstiklal Street
Although the area is known by its Greek name Pera-the other side-it
was a home for Galatians initially. Genoese merchants established a
colony here.During the decline of Ottoman Empire many embassies were
built between the orchards of Beyoğlu two of which survived to day. The
British and the French. The foreign communities built not only
embassies but houses, business buildings, places of worship and
cultural institutions. Most of those remaining to day date from the
19th century and represent a range of architectural styles from Baroque
and Rococo to Neoclassical and Art Nouveau.
Istiklal street was then called as Grande Rue de Pera
accordingly. In mid-fifties Beyoğlu began to lose its prestige and
small size manufacturers moved into apartments where glory prevailed
once. By the early nineties thru-traffic was detoured and the area was
designed as shopping and pedestrian precinct. A street car service was
established as a glimpse of nostalgia . The main street is packed now
bank branches, fast-food restaurants, clothing stores, music shops and
bookstores.
Although it looks easy to understand what's going on, it is not
as easy to grasp the details.For most Turks Beyoğlu is where they watch
movies and stroll up and down till the cinema time, and evacuate the
area as soon as the film is over. As the area had a reputation for its
all-male entertainment clubs most people still avoid the side and
especially back streets. Actually these side and back streets is where
the real action is.
With a proper guidance one can easily avoid few of the "night
clubs" where seamen or local businessman visiting Istanbul are ripped
off and explore any of the numerous bars, student cafes, home cooking
restaurants and jazz or rock clubs. The prices vary.
The weekly time out magazines could be a healthy day-to-day
references if you are unable to get information from a local expert.
But the general rule is to locate rushing Brit groups and chase them.
Sooner or later you end up at the filthiest place where the cheapest
beer is available with great fun. But if you are one of those heavenly
then there are so many churches whose services you can attend. Whatever
your choice is know prices before you eat or drink and never argue with
Turks.
If you are interested in seeing sharp cultural conflicts within
few hundred meter distances just stroll in back and side streets of
Tarlabashi where residents seem to be unaware of the richness and
glamour of Grand Rue de Pera nearby.